Living the Rural Thai Lifestyle in Isaan as a Foreigner

I have travelled to Thailand countless times over the last decade or so, and been to all the usual touristy destinations, you know the type, Bangkok, Phuket, the “Full Moon party” and so on. I loved the beaches, the weather, the care-free attitude of the locals, and, of course, the amazing Thai cuisine, which is known the world over for its exotic blend of tastes packed into each and every dish.

But I had never had a chance to visit the North East of Thailand, the so-called “rice bowl of the country”, or the “Isaan” region as the Thais know it. To be honest, I never thought there was anything much to do there and had never really met anyone who had been there, which I thought was a little strange.

But last year, a Thai friend of mine invited me to visit their home village, deep in the heart of the Isaan region, little did I know what I was letting myself in for. It’s certainly a huge change of pace from the frenetic craziness of the capital, what some people may call “boring”, but I say incredibly relaxed, laid back and friendly, with some fantastic food on offer. It’s also much cheaper than anywhere I have been in Thailand!

The little quirks of this region and its people are precisely the reason why I am still here, over a year later. But first, let me tell you a bit more about this wonderful region which I have come to know and love so much.

A Brief History of the Region

The Isaan region is a huge North-Eastern region of Thailand, bordering with both Cambodia and Laos, and was once upon a time divided between the peoples of the Laotian and Khmer kingdoms. It eventually fell into the hands of the Thai kingdom, but the roots of the citizens of this region still belong somewhat to the neighbouring countries. During the Vietnam war, the region received funds from allowing US military installations in the area, which was welcomed as it was (and still is), the poorest region of the nation.

The Thai government, fearing a revolution and separation from the Thai kingdom, eventually provided farming subsidies and financial assistance to the region to cement its place as part of the kingdom of Thailand. Today, it is still known by most Thai citizens as a “poor” area, with many residents sending young family members to the capital for better employment opportunities.

Culture

*image: Flickr

The culture of this region is the main draw for me, although I must say that it is certainly not everyone’s cup of tea. Relaxed, laid back and quiet define this region of Thailand, so you won’t find the debauchery and nightlife of other Thai destinations here. Nothing gets done quickly here, and people work in their own time, but sometimes I wish things were more like this in my home country.

The majority of people are asleep by 8:30 pm and up again at around 5 am to get to work on the farms or in the rice paddies. I find the people here to be amongst the friendliest and most welcoming people I have ever met in all my travels, and would gladly stay here until my savings finally give out.

The Isaan region even has its own dialect, which is distinctly different from standard Thai, and in essence is like a mixture of Thai and Laotian. In some of the more southern parts of Isaan, you can encounter people speaking a Khmer dialect due to the proximity of Cambodia, and if you can understand a few words of what they are saying, then you are doing much better than me!

One thing to note is that because Isaan is not well travelled by foreigners, you will almost certainly draw the attention of the locals, but in a positive way. People will want to try out their English skills on you, especially the youngsters, and people will be genuinely happy to meet you. Compare this to places like London, Rome or Paris!

Cuisine

Green Papaya Salad aka Som Tam | *image: Flickr

Isaan food is distinct from the traditional Thai cuisine you may already be familiar with. It’s slightly spicier, and many dishes are eaten at room temperature. Everybody and I mean everybody, eat som tam (green papaya salad), sticky rice, and plenty of fish, and although I must admit that even though I prefer the standard Thai fare such as green curry and jasmine rice, the food here is strangely addictive, even if it is something of an acquired taste.

Don’t be scared to try anything is my advice, especially if it home-cooked!

Final Thoughts

Sunset in Isaan | *image: Flickr

The intoxicating combination of genuine and friendly locals, incredible weather, the supremely laid-back way of life, and low cost of living mean that this is a place I could enjoy for the rest of my life. If you’re looking for raucous nightlife, you won’t like it here, but if you enjoy taking your time and enjoying nature, then there’s no other place you should be.

• Related: Betong – A Motorcycle Roadtrip to Thailand Yala Province

The people of Isaan are very warm-hearted, considerate, and generally curious about Westerners they meet. Don’t be surprised if you are invited to a random wedding or celebration, Isaan people are what the Thais call “Jai Dee”, which roughly means good-hearted, and when you consider that you can rent a small house for $75 a month, visit amazing waterfalls and caves every weekend as well as eat amazing food every day, for me, Isaan is the best place on Earth.

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Disclaimer: The views expressed in the article are the author’s and in no way reflect the views and/or opinions of Fat Starfish.